36小时玩转蒙特利尔

laval

36 Hours in MontrealBy SETH SHERWOOD August 03, 2012
36小时玩转36小时玩转蒙特利尔SETH SHERWOOD 报道 2012年08月03日
CANADA’S second-largest city may be the second-largest French-speaking metropolis on the planet (after Paris), but the attention lavished on its Frenchness — Bistros! Baguettes! People saying “Bonjour”! — tends to nudge aside the many other ethnic communities within Montreal’s remarkably diverse urban sprawl. Italians, Portuguese and Lebanese have a very visible presence, and the city hosts annual festivals dedicated to everything from Asian-American films to Caribbean food. Throw in a pulsing alternative community and creative scene (this is a place that engendered talents as diverse as Saul Bellow, Arcade Fire and the irrepressible William Shatner), and a whole new Montreal opens up. Whether your passion is Syrian cuisine, contemporary art or vintage shopping, Montreal is serving it up with aplomb. C’est vrai.

加拿大的第二大城市，可能是这个星球上讲法语的第二大都会（只排在巴黎之后），但在法国风情上投入了过多注意力——小酒馆！法棍面包！说着“Bonjour”的人们！这有可能会让人忽视了在蒙特利尔这个极为多元化的都市中，还有很多其他族群。这里有很多意大利人、葡萄牙人和黎巴嫩人，此外，这座城市每年还会举办各种庆祝活动，向从亚裔美国人电影到加勒比地区美食的各种文化致敬。投入到生机勃发的非主流社群和创意场景中（在这里诞生了多元化的人才，比如作家索尔·贝娄[Saul Bellow]、拱廊之火乐队[Arcade Fire]和个性张扬的演员威廉·夏特纳[William Shatner]），一个全新的蒙特利尔将向你敞开怀抱。无论你热爱的是叙利亚佳肴、当代艺术还是购买古董，蒙特利尔都会从容奉上。C’est vrai（法语，意为这是真的——译注）。


Friday

星期五


5 p.m.
1. LOOK IN THE WINDOW

下午5点
看看橱窗

J. Adam Huggins for The New York Times

从左起，分别是：Sky酒吧，Three Monkeys精品店，Portus Calle餐厅。

Inaugurated in February, the avant-garde glass building known as Le 2-22 (2, rue Ste.-Catherine Est; le2-22.com) puts Montreal’s vast cultural scene at your fingertips — literally. The atrium-like lobby houses La Vitrine (514-285-4545; lavitrine.com), a high-tech information center with touch-screen computers that provide listings of exhibitions, performances and other events around the city, including the coming African music celebration, Festival International Nuits d’Afrique (July 10 to 22). Upstairs, a bookshop called Formats (514-842-5579; formatsbookstore.org) sells art tomes and local magazines, while Vox gallery (514-390-0382; voxphoto.com) hosts art exhibitions.

这幢前卫派的玻璃大厦名叫Le 2-22 (2, rue Ste.-Catherine Est; le2-22.com)，2月份开张迎宾，将蒙特利尔丰富的文化场景全都汇于你的指尖——字面上说就是这意思。如同中庭一般的大堂叫La Vitrine(514-285-4545;lavitrine.com)，是一个高科技的信息中心，使用这里的触屏电脑可以获取城中各类会展、表演和其他活动信息，比如即将到来的非洲音乐庆典Nuits d’Afrique国际艺术节（7月10日~22日）。在楼上，有家叫Formats的书店(514-842-5579; formatsbookstore.org)销售艺术类的大部头图书和当地杂志，还有一家Vox画廊(514-390-0382; voxphoto.com)主办各类艺术展。


8 p.m.
2. LITTLE LISBON

晚上8点
小里斯本


The neighborhood around the intersection of Boulevard St.-Laurent and Rue Rachel is a sort of Little Lisbon, thanks to innumerable hole-in-the-wall Portuguese grills whose windows are filled with roasted chickens. At Portus Calle (4281, boulevard St.-Laurent; 514-849-2070; portuscalle.ca) the chef Helena Loureiro ups the style factor — exposed brick, candlelight — while placing beef, seafood and Portuguese wine at center stage. The sardine fillets have crispy skin and pack in all the sun- and sea-soaked tastes of the Iberian Peninsula. But the star is the steak. Topped with a delicately fried egg, the disc of filet mignon sits atop a haystack of matchstick fries larded with chorizo chunks and slathered with piri-piri sauce. A three-course meal for two costs about 100 Canadian dollars, about the same in U.S. dollars.

位于St.-Laurent大道和Rachel街的交叉路口，这个社区可称为小里斯本，因为路上有数不胜数的小门面，经营着葡萄牙式烧烤，每个窗口里都可以看到烤鸡。在Portus Calle(4281, boulevard St.-Laurent; 514-849-2070; portuscalle.ca)，主厨海伦娜·洛雷罗(Helena Loureiro)提升了小店的格调——在装饰方面用了裸露的砖头，配以点点烛光——将牛肉、海鲜和葡萄牙酒放到了最核心的位置上。沙丁鱼片表皮酥脆，吃一口，就尝到了伊比里亚半岛那阳光与海水的味道。但这里的明星是牛排。腓力牛排上面铺着一个煎得恰到好处的鸡蛋，配上一小堆细薯条，大块辣香肠，再浓浓地淋上葡萄牙霹雳辣椒酱。三道菜的正餐，两人份，大约是100加元，大致合100美元。


10 p.m.
3. BARS WITHOUT BORDERS

晚上10点
酒吧无国界


You can practically learn a new language at Les Bobards (4328, boulevard St.-Laurent; 514-987-1174; lesbobards.qc.ca). Just grab a St. Ambroise Cream Ale (3.75 dollars) and join the diverse dancing throngs. Most nights you’ll find a band with foreign passports, whether Balkan, Latin American, African or Caribbean. If Tokyo appeals, push the unmarked door at 4175, boulevard St.-Laurent. Speakeasyish and stylish, Big in Japan challenges claustrophobes with its lack of windows, and lights up Nipponophiles with its Suntory Yamazaki single-malt whiskey (10 dollars) and cold Nigori sake (9).

你真的能在Les Bobards(4328, boulevard St.-Laurent; 514-987-1174; lesbobards.qc.ca)学会一门外语，叫上一杯St. Ambroise奶油爱尔啤酒（3.75加元），加入不同肤色的人群，一起跳舞吧。大部分夜晚，在这里表演的乐队都是外国人，比如巴尔干人、拉美人、非洲人或加勒比地区人。假如你对东京感兴趣，可以推开位于4175,boulevard St.-Laurent的那扇没有任何标志的大门，Big in Japan感觉像是家非法经营，却又相当时髦的酒吧，四面无窗，对幽闭恐惧症患者是个考验，它家的三得利山崎单一麦芽威士忌（10加元）和冰镇清酒（9加元）一定会点亮日本迷的心情。


Saturday

星期六


11 a.m.
4. ORIENTAL REMEDIES

上午11点
东方疗法


Your brain is degenerating and your body is in ruin? Quoc Te (1024, boulevard St.-Laurent; 514-875-8156), a purveyor of Chinese herbs and remedies, can supply you with “Healthy Brain Pills” (3.99 dollars), tincture of hibiscus (for irritated skin) and “Penta Semen Posterity” capsules (for “weakness and flaccidity”; 4.99 dollars). It’s a fascinating stop in Montreal’s small but lively Chinatown. More cure-alls await at My Cup of Tea (1057A, boulevard St.-Laurent, 514-861-8800; mcot.ca), including “Shopoholic” (6.99 dollars), a tea that purports to relieve fatigue.

感觉大脑迟钝，身体僵硬？Quoc Te(1024, boulevard St.-Laurent; 514-875-8156)是一家提供中药和中医治疗的小铺，出售“健脑丸”（3.99加元）、土槿皮酊（治疗皮肤过敏）和“五味子”胶囊（针对“体虚，四肢无力”；4.99加元）。去逛蒙特利尔狭小却充满活力的唐人街，这里是非常迷人的一站。在My cup of Tea (1057A, boulevard St.-Laurent, 514-861-8800; mcot.ca)，还有更多包治百病的药茶在等着你，比如一杯“Shopoholic”（6.99加元），据说就能将你的倦意一扫而光。


12:30 p.m.
5. THE STEAM TEAM

下午12点30分
蒸汽军团


You won’t find General Tso’s chicken at this new, second outpost of much-loved Qing Hua (1019, boulevard St.-Laurent; 514-903-9887). The 40-odd varieties of dumplings, served in huge portions of 15, feature bizarre marriages of land and sea, including diced pork with sea urchin (13.99 dollars). If you prefer your turf and surf unalloyed, try the pork with green onions (9.99 dollars). Alternatively, shrimp with zucchini and egg dumplings (10.99 dollars) offers one of the most subtle mixes of ocean and agriculture.

在人气餐馆青花苑新开张的第二家分店（Qing Hua，1019, boulevard St.-Laurent; 514-903-9887），你不会看到“左宗棠鸡”这类食物。餐馆的食谱上提供了40多种饺子，一大份有15个，特色饺子奇异地将陆地与海洋连接了起来，比方说海胆猪肉饺子（13.99加元）。假如你想要更纯粹的海陆大餐，试试猪肉大葱水饺（9.99加元）。而茭瓜鸡蛋虾仁水饺（10.99加元）可以带来海产品与蔬菜混合后最微妙的口感。


2 p.m.
6. ART ASYLUM

下午2点
艺术庇护所


With its white hallways, fluorescent lights and metal-barred doorways, the upper floors of the Belgo Building (372, rue Ste.-Catherine Ouest) suggest a mental hospital. And the dozens of galleries featuring conceptual art sometimes do little to dispel the effect. A good first stop is Visual Voice Art Gallery (514-878-3663; visualvoicegallery.com). The proprietor, Bettina Forget, writes “The Belgo Report” (thebelgoreport.com), your best source for scuttlebutt about the latest shows. Other spaces include Pierre-François Ouellette Art Contemporain (Suite 216; 514-395-6032; pfoac.com) and the joint effort of Galerie Christian Lambert (Suites 501 and 502; 514-638-3994; galeriechristianlambert.com) and Galerie Roger Bellemare (Suites 501 and 502; 514-871-0319; rogerbellemare.com), which has exhibited works by John Cage, Joseph Beuys and other heavyweights.

Belgo大厦(372, rue Ste.-Catherine Ouest)的高层楼面大厅刷成雪白色，装着日光灯和金属栅栏门，恍惚间还以为走进了精神病院。里面十几家展出概念艺术的画廊，有时也很难改变这种印象。第一站可以去看Visual Voice画廊(514-878-3663; visualvoicegallery.com)，店主贝蒂娜·弗盖特(Bettina Forget)是《贝尔戈报道》(The Belgo Report，thebelgoreport.com)的作者，想要看最近展览的各类八卦，看这份报告就没错了。其他画廊还包括Pierre-François Ouellette当代艺术画廊(Suite 216; 514-395-6032; pfoac.com)，Christian Lambert 画廊(Suites 501 and 502; 514-638-3994; galeriechristianlambert.com)与Roger Bellemare画廊(Suites 501 and 502; 514-871-0319; rogerbellemare.com)的联展，展出约翰·凯奇(John Cage)、约瑟夫·博伊斯(Joseph Beuys)和其他重量级艺术家的作品。


4 p.m.
7. NORTHERN LUMINARIES

下午4点
北方之光


Warning: Shopping at Three Monkeys (Les Cours Mont Royal; 1455, Peel Street, Suite 207; 514-284-1333; threemonkeys.ca), one of a handful of indie boutiques hidden in downtown malls, can lead strangers to grate their fingernails against your trousers. Such are the possible consequences of sporting raspberry scratch ’n’ sniff jeans (150 dollars) by Naked & Famous Denim, a cult local label. The boutique also stocks the cutesy fashions of Betina Lou, as well as its own line of playful T-shirts (38 dollars) picturing such Montreal institutions as famous buildings and plates of poutine. You can complement your perfumy pants at Little Burgundy (Eaton Center, 705, rue Ste.-Catherine Ouest; 514-844-3226; littleburgundyshoes.com), which sells Canadian-made accessories like long feathered earrings by Everything (20 dollars) and mirrored aviator-style sunglasses by Hibou (12 dollars).

警告：有不少独立精品店隐藏在市区的购物广场中，如果你去其中一家叫Three Monkeys (Les Cours Mont Royal; 1455, Peel Street, Suite 207; 514-284-1333; threemonkeys.ca)的小店购物，很可能会引来陌生人用指甲刮你的裤子哦。这家店销售当地cult品牌Naked & Famous的牛仔服饰，如果穿上其中一件scratch ’n’ sniff牛仔（150加元），手指轻轻一刮便能散发出树莓的香味。此外，该店还代售一个很可爱的时装牌子，叫Betina Lou，同时销售自家品牌的搞笑文化衫（38加元），衣服上印着蒙特利尔最为人熟知的事物，比如有名的高楼和当地特色的普丁（poutine，干酪浇肉汁土豆条）。为了跟你这条飘香的牛仔裤相配，可以去Little Burgundy(Eaton Center, 705, rue Ste.-Catherine Ouest; 514-844-3226; littleburgundyshoes.com)，这里出售加拿大出品的饰物，比如Everything品牌的长羽毛耳饰（20加元）和Hiboub牌的飞行员金属太阳镜（12加元）。


7 p.m.
8. A MIDEAST FEAST

晚上7点
中东盛宴


The political situation in Syria may be demoralizing, but the country’s finest cultural export — food — is thriving at Restaurant Alep (199, rue Jean Talon Est; 514-270-6396). You won’t find any carved camels or other faux Mideast décor in the minimalist dining room, just top-notch mezze — small plates of appetizers. Standouts include a tangy moutabal (a purée of eggplant, tahini and lemon juice) and spicy muhammara (a walnut and red pepper paste). For main courses, the kefta kebab features ground lamb with a smoky-crisp exterior and garlicky interior. Dinner for two, without drinks, runs about 80 dollars.

叙利亚的政局也许让人不安，但该国最好的文化输出——食物——在Alep餐馆(199, rue Jean Talon Est; 514-270-6396)得以发扬光大。在这间极简主义风格的餐厅里，你找不到雕刻的骆驼或者其他造作的中东装饰，有的只是一流的小拼盘——小碟小碟送上的开胃菜。其中最出色的是味道浓烈的moutabal（将煮茄子研成泥，加芝麻酱和柠檬汁）和辛辣的muhammara（用胡桃和红椒拌成的酱料）。而在主菜方面，这里的烤肉串用的是碎羊肉，外表焦香，内里的大蒜味道很入味。两人晚餐，不含酒水，价格在80加元左右。


10 p.m.
9. SKY’S THE LIMIT

晚上10点
天空才是界限


You can’t accuse the neighborhood called the Gay Village of false advertising. The most out, loud and proud corner of Canada, this strip of Rue Ste.-Catherine is where much of Montreal’s gay and lesbian community, and abundant straight people, congregate in bars and clubs of every rainbow stripe. Sky (1474, rue Ste.-Catherine Est; 514-529-6969; complexesky.com) offers floors of fun, from the straight-friendly bar on the ground floor. The vast red-lighted space is a fine spot to swig a Stella Artois (4.75 dollars), play video poker and catch a drag show before heading upstairs to dance to hip-hop (level 2) or Top 40 (level 3).

你可不能指责将位于Rue Ste. Catherine的这片社区叫作“同志村”(Gay Village)是虚假宣传。这里是加拿大最出位、呼声最嘹亮，也最骄傲的一角，许多蒙特利尔的男同和女同社区，以及大量异性恋者，会聚在这里的各家酒吧和夜总会，令这里“彩虹”的颜色极为炫目丰富。Sky酒吧(1474, rue Ste.-Catherine Est; 514-529-6969; complexesky.com)给客人带来多重享受，一楼是欢迎异性恋者入内的酒吧，在宽敞的红灯区域可以喝一杯时代啤酒（Stella Artois，4.75加元）、玩把电玩扑克牌，看场变装秀，然后去楼上伴着嘻哈音乐（二楼）或Top 40金曲（三楼）跳舞。


Sunday

星期天


10 a.m.
10. RUN TO IRAN

上午10点
奔向伊朗


By late Sunday morning, the line at Byblos Le Petit Café (1499, avenue Laurier Est; 514-523-9396; bybloslepetitcafe.ca) is full of young couples, grad-student types and others eager to dig into the bright, book-lined Persian restaurant’s esteemed brunch. Arrive early and you’ll have dibs on the Oriental Omelet, a fragrant mix of cardamom, rose petals, milk and nuts. Alternatively, the plate of lightly salted feta cheese with pita bread and mint, coriander and anise is a creamy-crunchy-herbal blast. Brunch for two costs around 30 dollars.

星期天近中午时，Byblos Le Petit Café(1499, avenue Laurier Est; 514-523-9396; bybloslepetitcafe.ca)门口开始大排长龙，客人中多是年轻情侣、大学生和其他人，大家都急于想要走进这家光线明亮、书香悠远的波斯餐馆，享用他们受人尊敬的早午餐。早一点来，你就有机会享用东方煎蛋卷，鸡蛋里融入了小豆蔻、玫瑰花瓣、牛奶和坚果，香气四溢。此外也可以点洒了些许细盐的菲达芝士配皮塔饼，裹上薄荷、香菜和大茴香这些香料，在唇齿间柔滑、爽脆、香草的滋味次第绽放。两人早午餐，约为30加元。


Noon
11. TWEED, BRASS AND SMOKE

中午
粗花呢、黄铜和烟


One man’s trash is another man’s livelihood in Mile End, a bohemian neighborhood whose vintage-store-per-capita ratio must be among the highest in North America. Want to get gussied up like a stylish grandparent? Well-preserved tweed professor jackets (56 dollars) and floral dresses (32 dollars) at Citizen Vintage (5330, boulevard St.-Laurent; 514-439-2774; citizenvintage.com) will do the trick. Need to furnish your home like an early-20th-century machine shop or farmhouse? Style Labo (5765, boulevard St.-Laurent; 514-658-9910; stylelabo-deco.com) sells old metal lockers (850 dollars), long-ago country fair medals (112 dollars) and other lovingly restored relics. More eclectic still, Monastiraki (5478, boulevard St.-Laurent; 514-278-4879; monastiraki.blogspot.com) sells everything from the ethnic (an Egyptian water pipe; 220 dollars) to the alternative (posters of women with machine heads by the local artist Rupert Bottenberg; 40 dollars). Think of it as Montreal in microcosm.

在Mile End，一个人的垃圾是另一个人的生计。这片波希米亚街区肯定是北美人均古董店比例最高的地方。想要乔装打扮成时髦的阿公阿婆？Citizen Vintage (5330, boulevard St.-Laurent; 514-439-2774; citizenvintage.com)店里保存很好的粗花呢教授外套（56加元）和印花裙子（32加元）一定能帮你达成愿望。想要把家装修得像是20世纪初期的机械车间或者农舍？Style Labo (5765, boulevard St.-Laurent; 514-658-9910; stylelabo-deco.com)销售旧金属储物柜（850加元）、古早乡村市集奖牌（112加元）和其他让人备感亲切的古董。想要去更加博采众长的地方，可以去Monastiraki (5478, boulevard St.-Laurent; 514-278-4879; monastiraki.blogspot.com)，这里的货品林林总总，从民族的（一只埃及水管；220加元）到另类的（由当地艺术家鲁珀特·博顿伯格[Rupert Bottenberg]创作的海报，画面中的女性安上了机器头颅；40加元）。你可以将它当作是蒙特利尔的缩影。


IF YOU GO

住宿选择：


Opened last year, Zero 1 (1, boulevard René Lévesque Est; 514-871-9696; zero1-mtl.com) contains 120 sleek, modern rooms and is within easy proximity to Chinatown. Doubles from 139 Canadian dollars.

Zero 1 (1, boulevard René Lévesque Est; 514-871-9696; zero1-mtl.com)于去年开张，总共有120间整洁、现代风格的房间，离唐人街只有数步之遥。双人间139加元起。


Rockers and night owls might prefer one of the four vintage-furnished rooms at Pensione Popolo (4871, boulevard St.-Laurent; 514-284-0122; casadelpopolo.com), a sister project of two nearby live-music bars, Casa del Popolo and La Sala Rossa. Doubles start at 60 dollars and include a pair of free concert passes.

Pensione Popolo (4871, boulevard St.-Laurent; 514-284-0122; casadelpopolo.com)共有四间装饰古色古香的房间，摇滚乐迷和夜猫一族也许会喜欢这里。附近两家现场音乐酒吧也是酒店老板所开，分别叫Casa del Popolo和La Sala Rossa。双人间60加元起，包含两张免费酒吧门票。